The Semantics Matter
'Vintage.'
It's a word that once instantly evoked images of carefully preserved garments, rich with story, style, and soul. Yet today, we see it used to describe everything from a mass-produced teeshirt made last year with a motif representative of the seller right through to the factory-distressed denim labeled as 'vintage-inspired.'
Is the word 'Vintage' becoming diluted in modern fashion and the media? Or are we simply evolving in how we interpret it?
At Painted Bird Vintage, we believe that words (and stories for that matter) carry weight.
As guardians (or kaitiaki as we have been called) of authentic true vintage from here in New Zealand and beyond our shores (garments crafted 50+ years ago with design integrity and historical value), we're passionate about preserving meaning of vintage as it traditionally has been.
This isn't just a language debate. We believe it is also about protecting heritage i.e.raison d'être for curating and collecting but also appreciation of the craftsmanship, and ultimately consumer trust.
Where It All Began: The Real Definition of Vintage
Historically, 'vintage' in the fashion world refers to clothing that is at least 20 years old, but increasingly, many vintage purists (The ourselves included) argue that the label should only apply to garments that are at least 50+ years old. This timeframe ensures that the item reflects a distinct era, design ethos, and production standard that's long since passed. The esteemed Vintage Fashion Guild only represents clothing crafted up to 2000.
Then in contrast, 'retro' can refer to garments that are new but styled after older trends. Like an art deco flapper style dress sold at a $2 Shop or, a reproduction of a 1950's style dress made with new fabric, while 'secondhand' describe pre-owned items regardless of age or aesthetic lineage. 'Thrift' has traditionally refrenced purchasing from charity stores suggesting the value of the a deal obtained or that the shopper was budget consious savvy or ... 'thrify'.
The Dilution Problem: When Everything Is 'Vintage'
In an economy where digital shopping reigns, where global sales of pre-owned clothes surged by 18% last year to $197bn (£156bn) and are forecast to reach $350bn in 2028, (GlobalData for ThredUp) and trends shift at lightning speed, the term 'Vintage' has become a buzzword more often than not. You’ll find it stamped on 'best-vintage shops' in articles, mass-market platforms, chain-store collections, and influencer captions. And while it may make the concept of the elusive amazing vintage find feel more accessible, it often muddies the waters for shoppers who are genuinely seeking historically significant fashion.
This dilution can lead to:
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Confused customers buying garments they think are true vintage
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Misrepresented pricing and value
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Devaluation of the word and its cultural significance
Why It Matters (Especially Now)
In a cost-of-living crisis, when shoppers are trying to be more intentional and value-driven, clarity, honesty and authenticity is vital. Whether someone is seeking out a 1960s Italian coat, a 1950s couture designer vintage outfit or a 1980s New Zealand-made linen dress, they deserve to know what they're buying and what it represents.
As we discussed with Dan Ahwa in the New Zealand Herald's Viva a wee while ago (read the article here), getting the semantics right is essential to protecting the legacy of fashion history.
Do Semantics Divide or Clarify?
Some say labels are just labels, fabric is just fabric and if it is already made and bought once shouldn't we just call it ... used clothes. But as curators, storytellers, and stylists, we know language shapes perception. And perception shapes value. In our opinion:
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Vintage should be reserved for clothing made 50+ years ago
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Antique is best used for garments over 100 years old
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Retro refers to modern pieces mimicking past styles
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Secondhand/Thrift encompasses anything pre-owned, regardless of age or quality or where purchased i.e. secondhand, charity or swapped
Each category has a place. But conflating them serves no one. Least of all the customer trying to shop ethically and stylishly.
Questions for Consideration: What Do You* Think?
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Does the word 'vintage' still hold meaning for you?
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Should age determine naming rights?
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Is it time we move away from rigid categories, or should we protect their definitions?
Lets Keep the Nest True
Just like the French proverb says: "Petit à petit, l'oiseau fait son nid" (Little by little, the bird builds its nest). At Painted Bird Vintage, we continue to build a meaningful space for those who value fashion with history, heart, and honesty.
We’ll keep telling the stories, honouring the garments, and defending the word 'vintage' for what it truly is: a celebration of timeless style and a legacy of superior craftsmanship.
* Explore our 50+ year old, curated collection and we would love to hear your thoughts on this topic (and any others!) join the conversation on our Facebook or Instagram socials @paintedbirdnz.
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